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1.
HUE CITADEL
The construction of Hue Citadel was commenced in 1801
by Emperor Gia Long. This followed a period during which
the Nguyen Lords moved the capital around the surrounding
area. Since the initial construction, the citadel has
been altered and improved upon by a number of Emperors
including Emperor Minh Mang, whose tomb is not far from
modern day Hue city.
Unfortunately, Vietnam’s history of war has boded
ill for the citadel, and much of the interior, particularly
the Forbidden Purple City, has been destroyed. It was
during the conflict with the Americans that some terribly
bloody and vicious fighting took place, which flattened
a lot of the inner city. However, some parts do still
remain and will give you an idea of what a magnificent
imperial capital Hue must have been.
The Citadel is almost 10 km in circumference and its
walls are 6 m high and 20 m thick. The moat encircles
the entire Citadel and is 23 m wide with a depth of
4 m. There are ten entrances to the citadel, many of
which are now bridges and roads into the Citadel area
(where people live and farm).
2.
EMPERIAL CITY
The Imperial City was constructed in
1804 and is square in shape, with a perimeter of nearly
2.5 km. It has four entrances: the Noon Gate that is
opposite the flag tower, the Gate of Humanity on the
left side, the Gate of Virtue on the right hand side,
and the Gate of Peace at the rear. The city is surrounded
by the Golden Waters pond that flows into the lakes
at the northern corner of the city. Each gate has a
bridge spanning the Golden Waters, whilst the Noon Gate
has three bridges. In imperial times, the centre bridge
was for the use of the Emperor alone, whilst the other
two bridges were for the use of his entourage. Once you enter via the Noon Gate, separating
you from the Great Rites Court is the Thai Dich Lakes
(Great Liquid Lakes). These were dug in 1883 and are
spanned by a central bridge, the Trung Dao (Central
path) Bridge. The bridge has two ornately designed gateway,
carved with dragons slithering up and down them. The Great Rites Court (also known as
the Esplanade of Great Salutation) consists of two paved
terraces. The upper was reserved for high ranking civil
and military mandarins, whilst the lower was for village
officials and elders. The steles on each side of the
court indicate where each official’s designated
place was. At the two corners of the court stand two
bronze Kylins, which are believed to bring peace. Beyond the Great Rites Court there
is the Throne Palace. This was used on meetings. During
these meetings, the Emperor would sit on his throne
whilst only four top ranking officials were allowed
in the palace. The remainder of officials had to stand
outside according to rank. The palace was seriously
damaged during the Tet Offensive. Behind the Throne palace is where the
Great Golden Gate once stood, marking the entrance to
the Forbidden Purple City. The imperial City was not destroyed
to the extent of the Forbidden Purple City and there
are number of temples still standing, although some
are locked up due to their instability. These include
Trieu Temple, Thai Temple (a reconstruction), the Residence
of Everlasting Longevity, Phung Tien Temple, Mieu Temple,
and the Hung Temple
3.
FORBIDDEN CITY
Unfortunately most of the Forbidden
Purple City was completely destroyed during the Tet
Offensive. Most of what remains is no more than the
foundations of what must have once been grand buildings.
There are a number of smaller buildings that were spared
complete destruction, and there are some attempts at
restoration going on (and so there should be, given
the admission price). Before its destruction, the Forbidden
Purple City was used solely by the emperor and his family.
It was originally constructed during the reign of Emperor
Gia Long and was known as Cung Thanh (City of Residences).
It was not until the reign of Emperor Minh Mang that
the name Forbidden purple City was adopted. The City has seven gates linking it
to the Imperial City. From the Great Golden Gate, you
will enter a large paved area, backed by the foundations
of everything that used to be there. To your left and
right there are two small buildings that house many
artefacts of the City. In the left house, you can dress
up as an Emperor and have your photo taken sitting on
a throne (really makes you wonder sometimes). There
are only a handful of buildings within the city that
have been completely destroyed.
4.
THIEN MU PAGODA
This pagoda overlooks the southwest
bank of the Perfume River, around 4km south of the railway
bridge crossing. This was the home of the Buddhist monk
Thich Quang Duc, who burnt himself to death in protest
to the Ngo Dinh Diem regime. The motor car that took
him to the site of his self-immolation in Ho Chi Minh
City in 1963 is out back. The pagoda has been adopted
as the symbol of Hue City and is very popular with both
foreign and local tourists, hence the trinket sellers
and beggars out front. Behind the pagoda is a lovely
garden and a large glass encased smiling Buddha. To
the left of the pagoda is a huge bell dating to the
18 century and is said to be audible 10 km away. The road to Thien Mu Pagoda runs along
the bank of the Perfume River and is great for a late
afternoon ride as many boats are returning upriver.
The light is just great so take your camera. The road
also passes by a Portuguese church and also a mid sized
fresh produce market, which stocks excellent fruit.
5.
THE IMPERIAL TOMBS
Hue was the imperial centre of the
Nguyen Dynasty which was founded in 1802 by Emperor
Gia Long, and lasted until 1945. The banks of the Perfume
River around the Imperial City became the royal graveyard
for the thirteen rulers of this area. The majority of
Vietnamese practice ancestor worship, regarding death
as a passage into another existence. They believe the
layout of a tomb affects the soul’s journey to
the spirit world, and the fortunes of the living relatives
are determined through formal ceremonies to the dead
and protection of the tomb. Desecration of a tomb would
have detrimental affects upon both the living ancestors
and the souls chance of reaching the ultimate resting
place in the spirit world. The tombs of the Emperors
were even more important as their position would determine
the future of the Dynasty. The Emperors of the Nguyen
Dynasty there fore established their own Valley of the
Dead, which is believed to be protected in both the
physical and spiritual worlds.
6.
TOMB OF TU DUC
Tu Duc was the Emperor of Vietnam from
1848 to 1883. He is regarded as one of the more decadent
cruel Vietnamese Emperors. Although he was a dedicated
Confucian, his lifestyle was unusual in all areas. At
each mail he would have a choice of fifty dishes that
were delivered by fifty servants and prepared by fifty
chefs! He had over one hundred wives and quite a few
girlfriends on the side, although he never had children.
When Tu Duc drank tea, the water was collected as dew
from lotus leaves. He also had one of his brothers put
to death after his involvement in a revolt against him.
His tomb was constructed between 1864 and 1867 and is
own of the more grandiose tombs in Hue City’s
surrounds. In an attempt to foil grave robbers, his
body was not even buried in the tomb, and all those
who were involved in the burial were beheaded. His body
and treasures are at a destination that remains unknown. The centrepiece of the tomb is a huge
stone tablet that is estimated to weigh over twenty
tonnes upon which are inscribed various clarifications
of his rule. There are also a number of temples and
other buildings within the tomb grounds, along with
a nice lake with an island in the centre. Towards the
end of his rule, Tu Duc spent a lot of time on this
island and generally within his tomb, accompanied by
his entourage. The tomb of Tu Duc is about 7 km out
of the centre of Hue city.
7.
TOMB OF MINH MANG
Minh Mang Emperor ruled from 1820 to
1840 and was responsible for some of the major construction
upon the Imperial City. It was also the actions of Minh
Mang towards the Catholic missionaries which first brought
French military power to bear on Vietnam. The ground
of his tomb are large and peaceful, and his actual bomb
oversees the Lake of Tranquillity. The first entrance
is guarded by a life size stone entourage of soldiers,
horses and elephants, and opens to a courtyard containing
three temples. Past the temples, you will cross Trung
Minh Ho (The Lake of Impeccable Clarity) which is bridged
in three places. The central bridge was for the sole
use of the Emperor whilst the other two were for his
entourage. Beyond the pond there is Sung An Temple that
Minh Mang dedicated to his Empress. Following this temple
you need to cross another bridge before reaching his
tomb that is a huge walled-in dirt mound, which you
cannot enter. To give Minh Mang peace of mind whilst
ruling, all his servants were eunuchs.
8.
TOMB OF KHAI DINH
Khai Dinh Emperor ruled from 1916 to 1925, and his tomb
majestically appears from the side of a mountain covered
by forest. Unfortunately, the tomb lacks the harmonious
blending with nature that many of the other tombs and
Vietnamese architecture tries to achieve. This is due
to the fact that the tomb was built earlier this century
during the French colonial occupation and under their
influence. The weather-stained and blackened concrete
walls make the tomb seem older than it actually is,
but the different style of Khai Dinh’s tomb makes
it worth a visit.
The tomb is layered, and each stage is divided by stairs.
The entrance to the tomb begins with a long climb up
from the street level staircase that is bound by dragon
banisters. This opens up onto a courtyard, but it is
the second level that has a stone statued entourage
made up of life size mandarins, horses and elephants.
You must contend with more stairs to get to the main
part of the tomb and to where Emperor Khai Dinh is buried.
The Khai Dinh temple is 10 km south of Hue City, and
a sealed road passes straight past its entrance. The
view from the top is quite beautiful, looking at the
plains and surrounding mountains. The large white statue
farther south standing on a hillside is of Quan Am,
the Goddess of Mercy.
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